A poem for all the senses

Anyone strolling through Gmunden's old town inevitably stops at Graben 3. It's not a noisy place, not one that imposes itself – and yet it draws the eye, accompanied by the aroma of freshly baked goods wafting through the alley. Behind the walls of a revitalized 17th-century townhouse, a concept has been established since 2022 that is rare in this form: " La Sonett " – a building that combines a café, patisserie, bakery, bistro, and apartments, and is more than the sum of its parts.
The name is no coincidence. "La Sonett" means sound, but also refers to the classic 14-line poem form. And indeed, much here seems meticulously composed: the colors, the materials, the golden light, the movement within the space – and especially the products made in the bakery. It's a place that not only promises enjoyment but orchestrates it without ever feeling artificial. That all of this seems so natural today is the result of a path that was originally planned differently.

From plan to intuition

Michael Klein, master pastry chef and mastermind behind "La Sonett," initially envisioned his future in Vienna. After stints in Münster, Berlin, and international establishments, his path led him to the Hotel Sacher , where he worked as head pastry chef. It was there that he met and fell in love with his partner, Sarah Schubert. She worked as a speech therapist at the Vienna General Hospital (AKH) and, on the side, gained insights into the world of fine dining at the Sacher. Soon, the idea arose to open their own breakfast spot in Vienna – together with a renowned chef. But then came the pandemic. And with it, the decision not to take any risks. Michael temporarily returned to employment, but the desire for self-employment remained. "For me, it was always clear: if I were to become self-employed, it would be in a French style. Fine pastry has simply always fascinated me." That it would ultimately lead to a restaurant in the Salzkammergut region was unforeseen. Michael and Sarah found the building in Gmunden rather by chance – through their uncle, an architect. And yet, the decision was quickly made. “We visited the site and immediately felt: This is it. This location, this region – it fits,” the couple said.

An idea that has grown

What initially began as a simple patisserie quickly evolved step by step. Breakfast was added, then bread, and finally the bistro menu. None of this was fully planned from the outset – rather, the concept developed organically, based on experience, possibilities, and conviction. Michael isn't a traditional chef, but he saw potential, especially in breakfast. "It's often underestimated," he says, "there's still a lot of room for improvement, particularly in terms of quality." At the same time, the pastry chef had already gained experience in baking through his time at " Motto Brot " in Vienna. Today, this has resulted in a harmonious whole: their own bread, served at breakfast, complemented by French classics and creative in-house creations. Michael: "At some point, everything came full circle: we bake the bread ourselves – and the guests come to us for breakfast. It just feels right."
At the heart of "La Sonett" lies a clear philosophy: French patisserie as its foundation, meticulous craftsmanship as its cornerstone – and, beyond that, the freedom to embrace innovation. "Our cornerstones are the French style and craftsmanship. But we don't want to limit ourselves and see ourselves as creative individuals," reveals the owner. This philosophy is reflected in the product range as well as in the approach to ingredients. Regional influences play a significant role without being dogmatic. Flour, eggs, and other basic ingredients are consciously sourced locally, while at the same time, there is room for international techniques and inspiration. One example is the Salzkammergut tart, which incorporates regional products such as those from the Gmunden dairy and Bad Ischl salt . Or the "Gmunden-Brest," a playful interpretation of the French Paris-Brest . "We try to tell stories with our products," says Michael. "Not just through taste, but also through the idea behind them."

◄►

Craftsmanship that becomes visible

A central element of the concept is the open bakery. Located in the middle of the café, it allows guests to observe the baking process – deliberately without any theatrics. "Here, you see pretty much everything. Not just the pretty parts," Michael says with a laugh. "If something goes wrong, you can see it, too." So it sometimes happens that the aroma of something burnt wafts through the air instead of freshly baked goods. For the pastry chef, this isn't a flaw, but part of the truth. "People are at work here – and they make mistakes. That's precisely what makes it honest and authentic," he says. This transparency is part of a larger philosophy: nothing to hide, nothing to gloss over, but rather to openly showcase quality and craftsmanship.
As coherent as the concept seems today, the start was incredibly challenging. The opening took place just before the summer season – and brought with it a dynamic that pushed the young company to its limits. "We underestimated a lot. From day one, we were on a treadmill – full intensity, without a break," admits Sarah. The strain was enormous. Structures were lacking, and processes had to be developed alongside day-to-day operations. After just a few weeks, the exhaustion was palpable. "At some point, I stood there and said: I can't do this anymore," recalls Michael. Only gradually were they able to bring order to the processes. 2023 became the crucial phase, in which structures were created, responsibilities defined, and communication improved. Two department heads – one for the bakery and one for sales – together with Klein formed the new organizational foundation. Today, the team comprises 20 employees. At the opening, there were just six. The "La Sonett" CEO says: "I was definitely still wet behind the ears at the beginning – but perhaps that was precisely what was important." Although quality standards are high in the Salzkammergut region, the initial response from locals was entirely positive. And from tourists, too. "Fortunately, the concept was an instant hit," Michael says happily.

◄►

A house that thinks ahead

But that's still not all. Since the building is large, the concept was expanded even before the opening to include another level – literally: the apartments on the upper floors. Ten stylishly designed units now offer guests the opportunity to live right above the action. Waking up in a historic Gmunden townhouse with the aroma of fresh coffee and croissants, and having Lake Traunsee and this charming region right on your doorstep: could there be anything better? What the building doesn't have is a traditional reception desk – the restaurant itself takes on this function, and the team also handles check-ins and guest services. This has created a place where culinary delights, design, and hospitality come together. Sarah has long since returned to working as a speech therapist in a hospital. However, she remains active at "La Sonett," where she is responsible for marketing, social media, the website, and creative concepts. And, of course, she is involved in all important decisions.

The next step

In Gmunden, stagnation is simply not an option. Just a few meters away, the next chapter is already being written: " La Sonett – am See ," a chocolate shop and ice cream factory that opened at the end of April. On approximately 80 square meters, pralines, chocolate bars, and ice cream are created there – complemented by a to-go concept and insights into the production process. "I'll probably never get bored," says Michael drily. And perhaps that's precisely the common thread running through this establishment: the willingness to evolve without losing its core identity.
“We want to satisfy our guests and do something good for the region, the town, and our employees.” The latter are particularly important to the boss. “The team is simply fantastic. Some of them have been with me for a very long time,” he says.